Archive for the 'Namibia' Category


Landscapes of Africa – Best Photos

Nothing is as evocative of Africa as the  landscape: the physical territory with lots of long shots, sunsets, sunrises, oceans and deserts. Why it should be so, evocative that is, is a bit of a mystery. But when  I  look at these photos, they cry out, “Africa!” and no other place on earth that I’ve been.

Red soil, red sand, champagne glass shaped trees form the setting for the furry creatures most people go there for: but the most evocative, single thing about the continent for me is the land, ancient and worn, new and untested, puzzling and yet strangely familiar. Hope you enjoy them!

Sunset over Serengeti waterhole


To be included in this “best-of” there should not be animals or people or at least not the focus of the shot. Getting hoards of people, usually kids, out of the photo is an issue for  being included in this post but not for taking pictures.  In Africa,taking photos, I hardly ever thought, “wait till that kid gets out of the shot”.

On the other hand, if there were a tubby tourist with a blue and cream flowered Hawaiian shirt and skin tight, orange Bermuda shorts wearing new silvered Nike’s on the feet, I’d have no trouble waiting. Anybody wearing cameras and/or snapping photos (yes, like I was) also meant I waited or pointed the lens in another direction.

Here’s  what I found in the photo folder one year later thinking “landscapes, yes, they were striking”.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


Birds of Africa – Best Photos

From the hoopoe in Namibia to the crested cranes in Tanzania Africa was a place of marvelous birds and birds very different that the ones we are used to seeing in North America. Only the greater and lesser egrets, gulls (though different ones) and the great blue heron come to mind as birds we are used to seeing here that crossed our path somewhere in the nearly 2 months in southern Africa.

From the Okavango delta to the plains of Serengeti to the Chobe river banks Africa was chock-a-block with peeping, flapping, chirping, kindom animalia, phylum chordata, class aves.

In Africa it’s easy to focus on the big, furry, nursing mammalians but when we got back, there were a surprising number of photos of our avian friends: Africa is a great place for birding. Birders (the real honest-to-goodness fanatical types like Harry and Ted) know this, of course but we novitiates thought only of the hairy things like lions and tigers and bears. Here are the feathered creatures that stayed still long enough to clap a lens on during our seven week trip between Oct. and Nov. of 2009. Hope you enjoy them!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


Reptiles, Plants & Miscellaneous of Africa – Best Photos

This is a catchall post from our Oct. to Nov. 2009 southern Africa trip:  those photos that didn’t belong in one of the big 4 categories.  Where do you put a spitting cobra, e.g.?  Or a tse-tse fly or a termite mound or Mr. and Mrs. Dung Beetle? Well, they just don’t belong with mammals or bird or landscapes, I can tell you that!

Still these are pictures worth looking at (IMO). Hope you enjoy them.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


People of Africa – Best Photos

Aside from the furry, nursing, large and small mammals, we went to Africa to meet and see Africans at home and at work. With varying degrees of success, we did just that between Oct. and Nov. of 2009. Here are the (IMO) best photos of the people we traveled with and the people we encountered. Enjoy!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


Mammals of Africa – Best Photos

Mammals: big and small, furry and nurse their young, our close relatives in the animal kingdom. Unless I miss my guess, mammals are the reason people travel to Africa. Here are the best (IMO) of the previously blogged mammals of Africa taken between October and November of 2009. Hope you enjoy them!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


40 Years to Ngepi and Guma Lagoon

Traditionally, I am informed that ruby is correct for a 40th wedding anniversary.  However, Chiyemi got a trip to the Okavango delta, slept in a tent on the hippo path and a nice, locally made hand-woven basket.  It might have had sort of ruby-ish colors, now that I think of it. We spent the night of Nov. 1 on the Makoro island, itself, but the AiF group of friends and staff proposed a toast to us on Halloween on the deck of the lodge.  That event, 40 years before, occasioned this trip to Africa and brought us happily along into a place like none other we’d ever seen.  Well, you could say that about just anywhere along the trail in Africa, but you know what I mean. The little island we stayed on was cut off completely from the outside world as as different as could be.

After the desolate but wildlife rich Etosha Benji and the 16 travelers spent one more night in Namibia at Ngepi Camp.  After a longish day of driving we stopped at the most curious, possible the most beautiful camp of our entire stay: Ngepi on the banks of the Kavango river.

As you can see from the map, Ngepi by the  red A is on a thin sliver of land jutting eastward between Angola to the north and Botswana to the south.  The great white salt pan of Etosha is still visible on the left side of the map, just above the name, Namibia.  If you check the link to Ngepi Camp , you’ll find their political stance implicit in the George Bush warning (he thought Africa was a country) although  I don’t recall anyone asking our political  affiliation before we entered.

Ngepi is a campsite, but like all campsites, there were “chalets” which might conjure up pictures of the Austrian Tyrol or the French Alps, but indicate a place to sleep with bed, bathroom, roof.  I hesitate in Ngepi’s case to call them a room because they were on the banks of the river, open to the air and everything else, hippos, eg. which lolled about with the crocs, almost always outside the camp.  Beautiful place really – we set up Fox tent in no time and this is where I learned how to put the fly up at 3am in pouring rain.  The fly is a simple affair: 1m square of canvas which covers the vent at the top of the tent made of similar material.  Held down by 4 bungee cords to the tent cross-stays, simple really and made easier by cursing at the elements such as the driving rain that night.  Never left it off again.

From the most curious campsite to the most curious and elaborate preparations of the entire 6 weeks journey.  Here’s a preview.  Africa In  Focus wanted to get us from Ngepi to what became known as “base camp” at Guma Lagoon (another campsite) to speedboats to dugout (faux except in our case) canoes to a mooshy island in the Makoros in Botswana’s Okavango delta.

  1. Drive from Ngepi to Guma Lagoon in Benji?  No way.  Drive within 3 or 4 miles of Guma Lagoon camp because the sandy road won’t hold Benji up. You can see where Guma is by looking at the small map: just beside Ikoga.
  2. Unpack everything on tarps including tents, sleeping bags, enough personal gear for three days, all of the food prep (stoves, coolers, food itself, plates, table wear, water (plenty of clean drinkable stuff), and a few tons of other odds and ends.
  3. Pack all of that stuff and ourselves into land rovers provided by Guma Lagoon staff and drive through very sandy flood plain to Guma.
  4. Unload everything from the Land Rovers and carry them off to the campsite at Guma.  Set up our kitchen stuff in Guma’s kitchen area so we can eat dinner.
  5. Set up our tents in the very nice shaded, grassy campsites.  Eat dinner, drink a bit of Windhoek beer.  Eat dinner, watch the moon rise over the delta – gorgeous sight I must say.
  6. Get up bright and early, pack the tents and personal gear, and everything else mentioned in 2 above onto big broad tarp beside the lagoon where the porters pack the stuff off to the motor boats.  All our stuff takes off into the morning as we wait for our boats.
  7. Ride the boats out through the delta to an off-loading point where we load all the gear and ourselves  into a large number of dugouts.  There were two people per makoro.  Just to confuse things the dugout and the islands are called the same thing: makoro. Look at the small map and you can see the dark green Kavango river spreading out like a hand into the Okavango delta – largest inland delta in the world.  You can see how the Kavango simply runs out into the ground as it fans out.
  8. Poler poles makoro an hour of so through papyrus and water lilies to our own little island of maybe 20-50 acres.  We are not separated from the wildlife here and the elephant and hippo poop do not encourage one to go wandering. We set up our tent a bit apart with at least one hippo track underneath the tent.  I figure the hippos would not actually run over the tent unless antagonized and I had no intention of doing that.
  9. Unload the makoros and set up camp.  Dinner prep begins shortly after arriving.
  10. Oh, yeah! Set up the one toilet in the designated toilet area, surrounded by reeds but not much else.  Ahem.  If the toilet paper is not hanging on the shovel, it means the bathroom is occupied. Very al fresco.
  11. Set up the tents and go for a ride through the reeds to another island where there’s a bit of wildlife – red lechwes (pronounced for some reason as LEE-chee).  Nice walk where we can see the hammerkop nest and elephant’s rubbing on the baobab trees.  Back through the setting sun to camp where we eat dinner and go to sleep – not much to do with no electricity and no bar.
  12. Next day go for another pole to a different island, take another walk and return to camp: nice and a very interesting, boggy environment.  Break camp, load up the  boats and are poled back to the staging area where we again unload the boats, load up the motorboats and return to Guma Lagoon camp.
  13. Unload the gear yet again, set up camp under the trees and have a latte before dinner.  Sun sets, eat, go to bed, arise refreshed.
  14. Put all the  stuff back onto the Land Rovers and ride the half hour back to Benji where Big Mama has been keeping an eye on the rest of our stuff locked away beside her house.
  15. Unload the land rovers and reload Benji for a trip off toward Maun where we take our airplane ride. Our efficiency of load/unload gear at this point was 38.4% better than the first unload/reload: we knew the drill by now.

All of the above, as far as I can tell, is so the 16 travelers can spend the night in a “bush camp” in the Okavango delta.  Nice but what a load of work for one night out.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


Etosha to 2001: A Space Odyssey

Oct. 30, 2009 – Etosha, Namibia

The map doesn’t do justice to the hot, dry, mostly flat national park, Etosha.  Can’t say or think that name without images crowding forward and a sense of magic, the magic of nature that is, creeping up my spine: chills every time.  Most of Etosha is a vast salt pan, an endorheic (sealed from drainage to the sea) basin where little grows and animals are forced to avoid and  only one of the 50 water holes can save them.

You can see our path – along the edge of Etosha from Okaukuejo to Halali to Namutoni with game drives in Benji along the way.  What looks on the map like a lake (and sometimes it is) usually is salt pan.

Chiyemi and Terry - Etosha Pan

Try and imagine walking across this in the 90 F/ 32 C faultless blue sky overhead, no water in sight nor anything on the horizon. Along the edge where we were allowed to drive: trees, bushes, more water and animals.  If you walk far enough in the wrong direction you would come to the Kalahari Desert where your goose would, quite literally, be cooked.  Still, you would not a total waste – nothing goes to waste – hyenas or jackals would find you and leave your  bones for the vultures.

Jackal Hauls Off Springbok Head - Etosha

Brown Spotted (laughing) Hyena- Etosha

Before that you might be wishing for something like this…

Glen Walker taking a shot of Mark Paulson reaching for a Castle

Mark Paulson Photography

…Thanks also to Mark for several shots in the Slide show/Gallery below…

Africa In Focus Group Shot - Etosha Pan

Etosha, last day of three AiF spent in the fantastic game park in northern Namibia. Then off to the Etosha Pan and later to Ngepi for camping.  You can see the rim of trees in the background, so we hadn’t driven far from the animal haven and water holes just behind us in the little turnout for Benji the truck.

Glen and Mark Shooting Beer Shot Etosha

Someone's bones on the salt pan of Etosha long ago...

The yellow line of the road on the map  runs along the south side of the 120 km/75 mile long salt pan of Etosha.  In 2001 Stanley Kubrick used Etosha as backdrop for 2001: A Space Odyssey (youtube Dawn of Man sequence – highly recommended).

I’m an enormous fan of Kubrick and sci-fi so this 1968 film (called the  perfect science fiction film – why make another?) and Etosha add a frisson to the white sand and bleaching bones.  I must hasten to add that Kubrick did not film all of the Dawn of  Man in Etosha and that Tapirs may not have been present nor does current research support early hominids looking like this. Nor is Pan Am, nor were we visited by aliens in order to get our smarts but there is the lovely Strauss music from Also Sprach Zaranthustra to The Beautiful  Blue Danube and all that musical change implies over the course of human evolution from ape men to space fliers: genius in film making with the best transition is all of flim making – the one million year leap.

Slide Show

You can stop the slide show if you like (or back up or go forward) – controls on bottom of image.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Etosha – Day 3 Gallery

You can click on any image for a better look at a larger image.  You can  even click on the larger image and get full, full size if you like.

Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 23 other followers

Terry's Flickr Photostream



Dead Vlei - Namib-Naukluft National Park

Copyright 2010 – Terry Doyle